To knit a hat, cast on enough stitches to circle the head, join them in the round, knit a stretchy ribbed brim, work stockinette up the body, then decrease evenly to close the crown. Measure the head and knit a gauge swatch first, since those two numbers set your stitch count.
Measuring the head you are knitting for
Wrap a soft tape measure around the head just above the eyebrows and ears, where the brim will sit. If the person is not around to measure, the Craft Yarn Council head circumference chart gives standard ranges.
| Size | Head circumference (inches) | Head circumference (cm) |
|---|---|---|
| Toddler | 16 to 18 | 40.5 to 46 |
| Child | 18 to 20 | 45.5 to 51 |
| Tween | 20 to 22 | 51 to 56 |
| Adult woman | 21 to 23 | 53 to 58.5 |
| Adult man | 22 to 24 | 56 to 61 |
A snug hat is knit a little smaller than the head it fits, so the ribbing stretches and grips. Your pattern’s finished measurement tells you how much smaller that designer intended.
Yarn, needles and a gauge swatch
Worsted weight yarn, labeled 4 or medium, is a friendly choice for a first hat. The Craft Yarn Council lists US 7 to 9 needles (4.5 to 5.5 mm) and a typical gauge of 16 to 20 stitches per 4 inches of stockinette for that weight. Bulky yarn, weight 5, knits up faster at about 12 to 15 stitches per 4 inches.
Many hat patterns call for a 16-inch circular needle for the brim and body, then double-pointed needles or a long circular used with the magic loop method once the crown gets too small to stretch around the cable.
Knit a swatch at least 4 inches wide in stockinette, wash it the way you will wash the hat, and let it dry flat. Count the stitches across 4 inches. More stitches than your pattern calls for means you knit tightly, so try a larger needle, and fewer stitches means you should go down a size. Skipping this step is the main reason first hats come out sized for a pumpkin.
Turning your gauge into a cast-on number
Divide your stitches per 4 inches by 4 to get stitches per inch. Multiply by the finished hat circumference you want. Then adjust to fit your rib and crown.
Say your swatch shows 18 stitches over 4 inches, which is 4.5 per inch, and you want a 20-inch hat for a 21 to 22 inch head. That gives 90 stitches. A 2×2 rib needs a multiple of 4, and an eight-section crown needs a multiple of 8, so 88 is a sensible cast-on.
Brim, body and crown, round by round
- Cast on your number using a stretchy cast-on such as the long tail.
- Lay the stitches flat with the cast-on edge facing inward, confirm nothing is twisted around the needle, place a marker and join by knitting the first stitch.
- Work knit 2, purl 2 ribbing until the brim is as deep as you like, or fold it later for a cuffed look.
- Switch to knitting every round. Continue until the hat measures the body length your pattern gives, or matches a hat that already fits the wearer.
- Place a marker every 11 stitches for eight sections of an 88-stitch hat. Knit to 2 stitches before each marker and knit them together, then knit one round without decreasing.
- Repeat those two rounds until the stitches feel crowded, then decrease every round until about 8 remain.
- Cut the yarn, thread it through the live stitches, pull them snug, and weave in the ends on the inside.
Fixing the problems a first hat usually has
A twisted join shows up as a spiral in the brim. If you catch it in the first few rounds, rip back and rejoin, because it cannot be untwisted later. A loose ladder of stitches between double-pointed needles tightens up if you tug the first stitch on each new needle firmly. A crown that puckers usually means the decreases got too fast too early, so add an extra round without decreases between them.
Frequently asked questions
Can you knit a hat flat and sew it up?
Yes. You can knit a hat back and forth on regular needles, then sew the side edges together with mattress stitch. Work the same cast-on and decreases, but purl the wrong side rows to keep stockinette. The seam adds a little bulk, which is why many knitters prefer knitting in the round.
How much yarn do I need to knit a hat?
It depends on the yarn weight, the hat size, the stitch pattern and whether you add a pom-pom or folded brim. Check the yardage listed on your pattern, then compare it with the yardage printed on the yarn label. Buy an extra skein from the same dye lot if you are unsure.
What is the easiest stitch for a first hat?
Stockinette knit in the round is the easiest, because every round is knit stitches with no purling. Pair it with a knit 2, purl 2 ribbed brim, which stretches to hold the hat in place. Together they cover the two most common stitches and make a classic beanie.
How do you clean a knit hat?
Follow the care symbols on the yarn's label, which the Craft Yarn Council says tell you how to care for an item made from that yarn. A hand dipped in the tub means hand washing, and dots or numbers show the water temperature. Keep the label, or tuck one in with a hat you give as a gift.
How do you make a pom-pom for a knitted hat?
Wrap yarn many times around a strip of cardboard, slide the bundle off, and tie a strong strand tightly around its middle. Cut through the loops at both ends, fluff and trim the pom-pom into an even ball, then use the tie strands to sew it to the crown of the hat.
